By Salma El-Sakka
Writer Rory Buccheri undertakes an art-inspired pilgrimage through Ontario and Ottawa, tracing the landscapes that shaped the Group of Seven's iconic Canadian paintings while uncovering Indigenous histories that predate the artists' arrival.
Algonquin Park: Landscapes That Inspired the Group of Seven
In mid-May, Buccheri paddles Canoe Lake in Algonquin Park, guided by Algonquin Outfitters. The park, located in the province with the highest number of lakes and one-fifth of the world's freshwater, mirrors the scenes captured by Tom Thomson in works like The Jack Pine. Thomson's death in 1917 at age 39 spurred the formation of the Group of Seven, credited with bringing Canada's wilderness to global attention. On an island memorial cairn for Thomson, a brightly coloured totem pole erected by Camp Ahmek pupils in the 1930s stands as an "incongruous marker" unrelated to local Anishinaabe traditions.
Indigenous Perspectives on the Land
Christine Luckasavitch, formerly of a company dedicated to First Peoples' advocacy, explains that Algonquin Park's Omàmìwininì and Madaoueskarini Anishinaabe inhabitants were forcibly removed in 1893 when the area was exploited for lumber. Traces of logging remain on the park's 19 hiking trails. Luckasavitch notes a 2023 milestone: the first time in 100 years that a birchbark canoe made by Algonquin craftsman Chuck Commanda, using park birch, launched on Lake Opeongo. Kevin Eshkawkogan, CEO of the Indigenous Tourism Association of Ontario, emphasizes that the Group of Seven painted empty landscapes, yet the land was stewarded by First Peoples who remain its caretakers.
Ottawa's Galleries and the McMichael Collection
In Ottawa, the National Gallery of Canada holds Thomson landscapes, while the Canadian Museum of History, designed by Anishinaabe architect Douglas Cardinal, evokes Turtle Island. The McMichael Canadian Art Collection in Kleinburg houses the Group's largest collection. Curator John Geoghegan says the Seven, painting in the interwar period, helped forge a distinct Canadian identity. The gallery now juxtaposes historic works with contemporary Indigenous art, such as Kent Monkman's Two-Spirit alter ego Miss Chief Eagle Testickle, and exhibitions like Early Days that integrate Truth and Reconciliation Commission dialogues.
Living Culture at Mādahòkì Farm
At Mādahòkì Farm between Algonquin Park and Ottawa, museum objects return to everyday use: a teepee hosts gatherings, a ceremonial space serves community members, and Ojibwe Spirit Horses roam. Pikwakanagan artist Stephanie Sarazin shares stories of dance and pow-wows, illustrating how Algonquin landscapes thrive with ongoing narratives. Norval Morrisseau's Woodlands Art, exemplified by The Protector, offers a contrasting visual language rooted in Anishinaabe tradition and the Professional Native Indian Artists Inc., dubbed the "Indian Group of Seven" in the 1970s.
Travel Details
AirTransat operates direct flights from London Gatwick to Ottawa. A suggested itinerary starts at the Canadian Museum of History, crosses to the National Gallery, visits Algonquin Park (2.5-hour drive) ahead of summer crowds, then proceeds to the McMichael (two hours from the park), Toronto's Art Gallery of Ontario, and the Arts and Letters Club. Accommodation options include Killarney Lodge in Algonquin Park from £335 and Fairmont Château Laurier in Ottawa from £155.
