By Salma El-Sakka
Trichologist Anabel Kingsley has debunked a series of viral hair growth hacks, separating scientific evidence from social media trends. In a detailed breakdown, Kingsley, author of Haircare: The Ultimate Guide, examines popular claims about rosemary oil, scalp training, tight hairstyles, sulphate-free shampoos, collagen products, and scalp massagers.
Rosemary oil lacks strong evidence for hair growth
The rosemary oil trend stems from a single 2015 study involving 50 men, with no female participants. The study compared rosemary oil to 2% minoxidil, a concentration Kingsley notes is not the standard effective dose for male pattern hair loss. While not harmful, relying on rosemary oil for progressive thinning could delay proven interventions.
Scalp cannot be trained to produce less oil
Kingsley dismisses the idea that washing hair less frequently reduces greasiness. Sebum is produced by scalp glands, not hair, and extending washes leads to breakouts and inflammation. She recommends washing as often as the scalp needs, massaging the scalp for about 60 seconds during shampooing.
Tight hairstyles risk permanent traction alopecia
Slicked-back buns and heatless curls that pull on the roots can cause traction alopecia — gradual hair loss from chronic tension. Kingsley advises avoiding tight, uncomfortable styles worn daily for long periods, noting the damage can become permanent.
Sulphate-free shampoos are not inherently gentler
Sulphates are effective cleansing agents. Sulphate-free formulas can be just as harsh, and the label does not guarantee a better product. The key is how a shampoo works for an individual's scalp and hair.
Collagen shampoos do not make hair thicker
Hair is not made of collagen, and rinse-off shampoos have minimal contact time with the scalp. Proteins in conditioners may temporarily thicken the appearance of hair, but they do not alter follicle growth.
Scalp massagers may damage the scalp
Silicone scalp brushes with rigid or pointed bristles can be abrasive and damage hair and scalp. Kingsley recommends using fingertips instead for shampooing.
Effective treatment depends on the cause of hair loss
For female pattern hair loss, topical minoxidil remains the most extensively studied treatment. For telogen effluvium — excessive shedding triggered by stress, illness, or nutritional deficiencies — addressing the underlying cause is the priority rather than using growth serums.
