By Fatma Younis
Chef Gareth Ward, co-owner of Wales' only two-Michelin-star restaurant Ynyshir, has defended his kitchen standards after a hygiene rating controversy that drew global attention.
Hygiene Rating Controversy
In February, Ceredigion council awarded Ynyshir a one-star hygiene rating, citing concerns about raw and undercooked foods, and ordered the restaurant to stop serving raw lobster. Inspectors identified significant hazards that were not properly identified, a dirty floor, inadequate hand-washing facilities, and broken equipment posing contamination risks. The management of food safety was categorized as needing major improvement.
Documentary Response
Ward addresses the scrutiny in the Apple TV documentary series "Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars," stating, "I run a spotless kitchen." He said the rating hurt because the team strives to be the best, adding that the restaurant goes above and beyond to ensure safety despite its unconventional methods.
Reinspection and Recovery
Ynyshir responded that the issues were minor and typical of a busy professional kitchen in rural Wales, and that they were rectified immediately. Biological testing at significant cost confirmed the techniques were safe and compliant. By August, the council reinstated a five-star hygiene rating after verifying that all matters had been addressed.
The 16-seat restaurant, known for its Japanese-inspired 30-course tasting menu priced at nearly £500 per head, missed out on a third Michelin star at this year's ceremony. Ward emphasized the weight of responsibility for his team of more than 30 staff and the business, saying, "We dare to be different."
